Strike Culture Shock, Quenelles, and some WWII history

The French are known for their cuisine, the arts, their extensive history book, and a fierce pride in their culture. To faire la grève, means to go on strike… which is something else the French know how to do well. I know I’ve already written a little bit about the current strikes and protests (manifestations) going on Nation-wide in France… but, because I was out-and-about today, I saw more of a commotion than I have in the past few weeks.

Today’s plan was to go out to lunch (Lindsey and I are trying out a few new restaurants so that when we have company, we know where to take them!) and to see a movie. I left the apartment a little early, in hopes of getting to the post-office to send a postcard, but alas- my bus was already there, so I ran to catch it. Well- that wasn’t necessary. I sat on this bus for 15 minutes before we started moving. Because of the strike, there were fewer buses in the rotation, and this one sat here gathering people so they didn’t have to wait so long for the next bus to come (I assume). While I was on the bus, I saw the tram take off 3 times… but I figured it would be just my luck if I got off, the bus would leave 30 seconds later.

After the bus ride from hell, (it was SO hot on the bus and the driver kept stopping suddenly, making everyone lurch forward….), I got on the metro towards Vieux Lyon. On the loud-speaker, they told passengers that we would not be stopping at one of the stops (Bellecour- a major metro stop) due to the manifestations. This thankfully didn’t affect me, but when we got to where we should have stopped at Bellecour, we instead slowed down, and sped back up. People who needed to get off were none-too-pleased to have to get off at the next stop and walk. Even with the delays, I got to Vieux Lyon early enough to find myself a post office (Leslie- look for your postcard in the mail!).

After walking through one of the very old covered passageways to cut through to another street (called a traboule) Lindsey and I found ourselves at another bouchon, with a three course menu plan for less than 15 euros. I ordered soupe à l’oignon (or, known to us Americans, French onion soup), some sort of fish in a tomato based sauce, and a tarte au pralines with ice cream for dessert (I know, I’m obsessed with the pralines, but they're just so GOOD!). The soup hit the spot (it was in the low 50’s today), the fish was ok, and the tarte was delectable. Lindsey ordered the Lyon specialty quenelles (which Laurence made me the first day I got here ). She wasn’t too impressed, so I helped her finish itJ I’ve decided that I will stick to ordering quenelles from now on, as well as anything with pralines, when I’m feeling in the mood for a Lyon specialty. (I did a little research because we’re still unsure of what a quenelle is exactly… but Wikipedia says that they are either a mixture of fish, chicken, or meat with breadcrumbs and a light egg binding, or in their most natural form made of semoule (or semolina) which is the coarse, purified wheat middlings of durum wheat used in making pasta. To me, they taste like big fluffy, pieces of pasta. Lindsey said it was a little too mushy for her. They also make a chocolate quenelle… that just looks like the traditional oblong shape… so not to worry, it isn’t made with eggs or wheat middlings! Now the mystery is solved!)

After lunch, which took almost 2 hours (eating takes time, and the French take their time doing so), we speed-walked to catch our movie. On the way there, we passed Bellecour and saw a small demonstration going on. We thought we must have missed the big protest if this was all there was. The movie we went to see was called Elle s’appelait Sarah (which is the translation of the book title Sarah’s Key). I still haven’t read the book, even though it’s on the “to-read” list. The movie theater (not nearly as big as our theaters, but still cool looking) was packed, which surprised us since it was in the middle of the day on a Friday. (I guess all the protestors went to the movies?)

The movie was partly in French, partly in English because it switches back and forth between the WWII era story and the present day story about the American journalist uncovering the other story. The movie was immediately intense, showing Sarah’s family and other French Jews in Paris being taken to Vel d’Hiv (an indoor bicycling racetrack). Then, it switched to the journalistic side of the story, and you learn that the reason this story is so unknown and poorly documented (as the Nazi’s photographically documented everything) is because it was a raid carried out by the French police. It was the largest raid on French Jews in occupied France. These people were taken to Vel d’Hiv as a holding place until they were sent to Auschwitz. I won’t give away the rest of the "Sarah’s Key" story, which is at times very touching, but also truly horrific. After I go to so many Renaissance or Medieval era monuments, I forget how much history there is around here from not very long ago… and I think about how much this still must be a part of their European identity. There is supposed to be a great museum in Lyon on the French Resistance movement during WWII… it’s on my list.

It was a weird transition coming out of the dark theater and into the sunlight with protests going on in Bellecour. There were police with riot gear on and more crowds of people. I noticed for the most part, the crowds were of young people. When you hear about these retirement reforms, you mostly think it’s the aging population who are being affected and who are the most likely to strike. But, if these people have to work 2 years longer, that’s 2 more years that the younger population will be without jobs… so I guess they have just as much to strike about.

Lindsey and I have a big day planned for tomorrow (going to Chambery) so after a few pictures, we went our separate ways to head home. I took the metro from Bellecour that was working again, and got off to take the tram home (assuming that the bus would be a nightmare again). I got off the metro, and ran to catch a tram about to leave. Unfortunately, I just missed the tram by 5 seconds, the doors closing in my face. The tram notifier said the next one wouldn’t be arriving for another 21 minutes, so I dashed across the street to see if there was a bus I could catch. While I was across the street, another tram came through! I was so frustrated. So I went and sat my butt down to wait it out for another tram… which didn’t come for 20 minutes. Needless to say, I was feeling the strike culture shock at this point. The other people waiting were annoyed, but when you heard them talking about it, they just said, “ah, yes, this is because of the strikes…” like it’s just a normal part of life (which for them it is).

I finally got on a tram and got home! Now it’s time to relax, plan how I’m getting to the train station tomorrow if the buses are all messed up again, and praying that the strikes and weather don’t rain on my parade! (My train's already been canceled, so we're hoping to get a later trip in...)

Reste cool!

p.s. Thank you to all of my readers... for reading!

I had a request to comment on whether college is free for students in France…. And the answer is, yes! Sort of! The French pay a lot of taxes, but in the end are rewarded with universal health care, pension plans, and very low cost college tuition, among other benefits. University is done quite differently in France… students must take an exam at the end of highschool (the Bac), giving them access to university (for free). Many students go into preparatory classes first, especially for engineering or medical tracks. Only some schools, like the Sorbonne, and private or specialized business schools require a tuition, and they are nothing compared to the cost of American tuitions. On the other hand, going to college in France rarely means going off to a school to live in a dorm and having state-of-the-art facilities included in tuition (like gyms or student commons like in the US). There you have it in a nutshell!