The tales of an American living in Lyon, France for 7 months as a primary school English Teaching Assistant (and accounts of her other adventures)...
Thursday, October 21, 2010
i guess this wouldn't be france without a frustrating strike
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
my attempt at explaining the strike craziness
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
La Maternelle... and more striking.... (UGH)
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Zee Grand Adventure to Chambery
Despite our 8:41am train being canceled to Chambéry, we made it there!!! However at first, I was a little nervous that we might not make it. I got to the train station at about 8:30, got in line at the welcome station (accueil) and the woman told me the next train wouldn’t be leaving until after noon (which would have made our trip to Chambéry really short). Lindsey texted me shortly after I talked to this woman, saying that she was getting in line at the ticket booth. I found her, and then Helen and Caroline found us. We waited in line, hoping they’d allow us to take the 9:40am coach bus instead of waiting until after noon to take the train. We got up to the lady (a different one than I talked to), and she said, “But of course you can take the bus!” Yipee! So we hopped on the bus and headed out of Lyon for the first time since we've arrived.
From here, we continued straight on to the Hotel de Ville. The building itself is very pretty, but has an adorable carousel in front, with huge bunny rabbits and horses going round and round. Already we could tell we were going to like Chambéry. It was so cute! And it only kept getting better. We took several pictures in front of the Hotel de Ville and kept walking our way towards the center of the old town.
We took a little pedestrian-only alleyway towards the town center and found ourselves on a gorgeous street lined with colorful buildings, with overflowing flower boxes in the windows and quaint shutters. There were several fountains and a beautiful clock tower. I felt like my finger never left the button on the camera. Every time I turned around it got prettier and prettier! (And they've already put up their Christmas decorations!)
We knew we’d have plenty of time to tour more, so we all agreed it was time to find something to eat. A specialty of this area is the fondue savoyarde, a type of cheese fondue (Chambéry used to be the capital of the Savoie Dukedom). We looked around at several restaurants until we decided on one that had fondue on the menu that came with a little salad and charcuterie (cold cut meats) included in the price. It was an excellent choice, our waiter man was very attentive and brought out more bread for our delicious fondue. I know adding big clumps of gooey, creamy cheese to bread and ham isn’t the healthiest way to eat, but boy is it good. And, I’ve decided, fondue is just really fun to eat. Who wouldn’t want to spear their food and stick it into a pot of boiling cheese?
After lunch, we made our way through the town again, looking for the Fontaine des Elephants (Elephant Fountain). The fountain is at the base of the street Rue de Boigne and at the other end is the Chateau des Ducs. Although the main part of the village dates back to the 15th and 16th Century (or earlier), this particular fountain was put here in 1838. The fountain has 4 elephants (it has something to do with celebrating Boigne’s exploits in India) spouting water from their tusks. It is quite the cool fountain… definitely in my top 10!
We took several pictures and did an about-face to walk to the chateau (now the prefecture). A small group of high school students were on the stairs leading to the castle with a megaphone. How cute we thought, they’re “protesting.” The castle is cool looking; it has a beautiful chapel and tours dating back to the 14th century. We were excited to go in and see it on our tour (sadly, the protest got a little bigger and we couldn’t go in).
After this, we went to the big cathedral because my guide book mentioned it having beautiful paintings. The outside isn’t very outlandish like some of the other cathedrals I’ve seen, but when you go inside, it’s amazing. There is such detail in the walls and ceiling! And, after a few minutes you realize that it isn’t detailing carved into the stone, but actually painted on there! (On our tour, the woman told us it is called a trompe l’oeil (or trick of the eye). We didn’t know this then, but on our tour, she told us the cathedral had 2 different artists, giving it 2 different feels. At the front, the paintings seem to open the church… because in the arches and windows painted in you see what appears to be columns and more arches in a hallway (which isn’t actually there). In the rest of the church, she said the paintings almost make you feel more closed in.
It’s a pretty dark church as far as cathedrals go… the stained glass isn’t anything too exciting and they’re fairly small. In the back of the church, there is an amazing organ that’s been restored and has something like a thousand different notes (I think that’s what she said). The organist was actually practicing when we came in the first time.
After our visit at the cathedral, we met the tour group (2 hour tour, in French, for 3,50 euros- not bad!). Our guide was very enthusiastic about the history of Chambéry, telling us all about how the city used to be made up with canals and it was encircled by a wall, and it had a mote. It is also very smartly located in the Alps, which doesn’t serve as a barrier, but as a gateway to Switzerland, France, and Italy. The city still has many traces of this medieval era, but it is quite the mix of 14th-19th century architecture and influences. Most of the town was also built with wood, so not only was water a main element of this city, but also fire because several parts burned down several times (all restored to original or bigger and better than original in a different era, which gives the mix of eras).
She took us the Cathedrale St. Francois (the one with the paintings). She also took us through many of the city’s covered passageways (similar to the traboules in Lyon). These passages were created so that people could come out of their houses and within minutes reach a street parallel to theirs (these were a nice get-away from the rain). She showed us many different houses, complete with their own individual history. She showed us spiral staircases and little emblems carved into the stone dating back to the 14th or 15th century. She showed us the oldest street in Chambéry, a street that used to have a church right in the middle of it (there’s a fountain there now instead), and beautiful courtyards. Then, right near the end of our tour, where we were supposed to be going into the chateau, the protests had grown to hundreds of people. They were beating drums, shooting off flares, holding huge signs, chanting, singing, etc. It was quite the exciting way to end a tour (even if we didn’t get to the inside of the castle and hear the 70 bell chimes of Sainte-Chapelle).
By this point, the rain was coming down a little harder than the light sprinkle from earlier and the temperature had dropped somewhere around hour 1 of our tour. We were frozen! So before we got on to our train, we stopped at a very cute little salon de thé for a hot chocolate. It was delightful.
The trip was a success, we got our train home, and went our separate ways to head home. The girls were such fun to tour with… and I know we will have many more adventures to come!
(More pictures in next blog!)
Friday, October 15, 2010
Strike Culture Shock, Quenelles, and some WWII history
Today’s plan was to go out to lunch (Lindsey and I are trying out a few new restaurants so that when we have company, we know where to take them!) and to see a movie. I left the apartment a little early, in hopes of getting to the post-office to send a postcard, but alas- my bus was already there, so I ran to catch it. Well- that wasn’t necessary. I sat on this bus for 15 minutes before we started moving. Because of the strike, there were fewer buses in the rotation, and this one sat here gathering people so they didn’t have to wait so long for the next bus to come (I assume). While I was on the bus, I saw the tram take off 3 times… but I figured it would be just my luck if I got off, the bus would leave 30 seconds later.
After the bus ride from hell, (it was SO hot on the bus and the driver kept stopping suddenly, making everyone lurch forward….), I got on the metro towards Vieux Lyon. On the loud-speaker, they told passengers that we would not be stopping at one of the stops (Bellecour- a major metro stop) due to the manifestations. This thankfully didn’t affect me, but when we got to where we should have stopped at Bellecour, we instead slowed down, and sped back up. People who needed to get off were none-too-pleased to have to get off at the next stop and walk. Even with the delays, I got to Vieux Lyon early enough to find myself a post office (Leslie- look for your postcard in the mail!).
After walking through one of the very old covered passageways to cut through to another street (called a traboule) Lindsey and I found ourselves at another bouchon, with a three course menu plan for less than 15 euros. I ordered soupe à l’oignon (or, known to us Americans, French onion soup), some sort of fish in a tomato based sauce, and a tarte au pralines with ice cream for dessert (I know, I’m obsessed with the pralines, but they're just so GOOD!). The soup hit the spot (it was in the low 50’s today), the fish was ok, and the tarte was delectable. Lindsey ordered the Lyon specialty quenelles (which Laurence made me the first day I got here ). She wasn’t too impressed, so I helped her finish itJ I’ve decided that I will stick to ordering quenelles from now on, as well as anything with pralines, when I’m feeling in the mood for a Lyon specialty. (I did a little research because we’re still unsure of what a quenelle is exactly… but Wikipedia says that they are either a mixture of fish, chicken, or meat with breadcrumbs and a light egg binding, or in their most natural form made of semoule (or semolina) which is the coarse, purified wheat middlings of durum wheat used in making pasta. To me, they taste like big fluffy, pieces of pasta. Lindsey said it was a little too mushy for her. They also make a chocolate quenelle… that just looks like the traditional oblong shape… so not to worry, it isn’t made with eggs or wheat middlings! Now the mystery is solved!)
After lunch, which took almost 2 hours (eating takes time, and the French take their time doing so), we speed-walked to catch our movie. On the way there, we passed Bellecour and saw a small demonstration going on. We thought we must have missed the big protest if this was all there was. The movie we went to see was called Elle s’appelait Sarah (which is the translation of the book title Sarah’s Key). I still haven’t read the book, even though it’s on the “to-read” list. The movie theater (not nearly as big as our theaters, but still cool looking) was packed, which surprised us since it was in the middle of the day on a Friday. (I guess all the protestors went to the movies?)
The movie was partly in French, partly in English because it switches back and forth between the WWII era story and the present day story about the American journalist uncovering the other story. The movie was immediately intense, showing Sarah’s family and other French Jews in Paris being taken to Vel d’Hiv (an indoor bicycling racetrack). Then, it switched to the journalistic side of the story, and you learn that the reason this story is so unknown and poorly documented (as the Nazi’s photographically documented everything) is because it was a raid carried out by the French police. It was the largest raid on French Jews in occupied France. These people were taken to Vel d’Hiv as a holding place until they were sent to Auschwitz. I won’t give away the rest of the "Sarah’s Key" story, which is at times very touching, but also truly horrific. After I go to so many Renaissance or Medieval era monuments, I forget how much history there is around here from not very long ago… and I think about how much this still must be a part of their European identity. There is supposed to be a great museum in Lyon on the French Resistance movement during WWII… it’s on my list.
It was a weird transition coming out of the dark theater and into the sunlight with protests going on in Bellecour. There were police with riot gear on and more crowds of people. I noticed for the most part, the crowds were of young people. When you hear about these retirement reforms, you mostly think it’s the aging population who are being affected and who are the most likely to strike. But, if these people have to work 2 years longer, that’s 2 more years that the younger population will be without jobs… so I guess they have just as much to strike about.
Lindsey and I have a big day planned for tomorrow (going to Chambery) so after a few pictures, we went our separate ways to head home. I took the metro from Bellecour that was working again, and got off to take the tram home (assuming that the bus would be a nightmare again). I got off the metro, and ran to catch a tram about to leave. Unfortunately, I just missed the tram by 5 seconds, the doors closing in my face. The tram notifier said the next one wouldn’t be arriving for another 21 minutes, so I dashed across the street to see if there was a bus I could catch. While I was across the street, another tram came through! I was so frustrated. So I went and sat my butt down to wait it out for another tram… which didn’t come for 20 minutes. Needless to say, I was feeling the strike culture shock at this point. The other people waiting were annoyed, but when you heard them talking about it, they just said, “ah, yes, this is because of the strikes…” like it’s just a normal part of life (which for them it is).
I finally got on a tram and got home! Now it’s time to relax, plan how I’m getting to the train station tomorrow if the buses are all messed up again, and praying that the strikes and weather don’t rain on my parade! (My train's already been canceled, so we're hoping to get a later trip in...)
Reste cool!
p.s. Thank you to all of my readers... for reading!
I had a request to comment on whether college is free for students in France…. And the answer is, yes! Sort of! The French pay a lot of taxes, but in the end are rewarded with universal health care, pension plans, and very low cost college tuition, among other benefits. University is done quite differently in France… students must take an exam at the end of highschool (the Bac), giving them access to university (for free). Many students go into preparatory classes first, especially for engineering or medical tracks. Only some schools, like the Sorbonne, and private or specialized business schools require a tuition, and they are nothing compared to the cost of American tuitions. On the other hand, going to college in France rarely means going off to a school to live in a dorm and having state-of-the-art facilities included in tuition (like gyms or student commons like in the US). There you have it in a nutshell!