The tales of an American living in Lyon, France for 7 months as a primary school English Teaching Assistant (and accounts of her other adventures)...
Thursday, October 21, 2010
i guess this wouldn't be france without a frustrating strike
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
my attempt at explaining the strike craziness
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
La Maternelle... and more striking.... (UGH)
Monday, October 18, 2010
ouuuaaaai!!!! (waaaaaay!)
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Quelle Surprise!
This morning, I got up before the sun was up, on a Sunday, voluntarily. I knew I had a whole list of things to do today and I went to bed insanely early last night (I think I was in a cheese comma). First on my to-do list, LAUNDRY. It is so inconvenient to not have a washing machine close by. Even in college all I had to do was walk down a flight of stairs. Now, I have to walk down a flight of stairs and down the street. And today it is cold and windy. Bleh.
But, on the other hand, I do like being out and about on Sunday morning s. There’s a big market right by my Laundromat, so I decided today I’d stick my laundry in a machine and go take a look around the market. Of course, I ended up buying all of my produce and bread there for the week (adding more bags to carry home with the laundry). But, not only was it cheaper (10 euros for 3 huge apples, 2 pears, 2 tomatoes, 1 avocado, 1 huge and beautiful head of lettuce, a basket of strawberries, and a large pink praline brioche that should hopefully last more than 2 days), but it was great fun! The market people (I don’t know what to call them in English) genuinely want you to have the best fruits and vegetables. One market guy sang everything I ordered and asked when I’d be eating my food so as to pick the perfect ripeness. It was cold and rainy and I walked away thoroughly pleased with my experience.
I got finished with my laundry and back to my apartment. I was starved, and got all the ingredients ready for an omelette au jambon (ham omelet). I had everything ready, from the lettuce and tomatoes cut and ready for my salad, to the butter melting in the hot pan when Laurence called, inviting me to lunch at midi (noon). I had no idea what time it was… I said, huh, well I’m just about to make myself something, but I can leave it for later. She said she’d be there in 25 minutes.
Now, I had a whole list of things to do today- laundry was first, omelet second, cleaning, putting away my laundry, and grocery shopping third, and lastly, a shower. I was looking a little rough, so I ran to the shower, and miraculously got ready in 15 minutes with enough time to put away my omelet ingredients and laundry! The rest can wait, I thought! Here’s my chance at the big French, Sunday meal I’ve always dreamed of (or something like that).
As you can imagine, my insides were a-gurgling at this point. We got to Laurence’s house (her mother in tow), and nothing was ready yet. I thought, my God, I’m going to collapse. (But, not to worry, I survived). Laurence’s mother is hilarious. She’s very theatrical, deaf, and talks non-stop. She knows 2 words in English: Good Morning. Even though I didn’t quite catch all of what she said, she was entertaining nonetheless.
All 3 kids were there and the husband went to fetch his mother, so we were 8 in total for lunch. Laurence made raclette, which is similar to fondue in that it involves melted cheese… but different. With fondue, everyone eats from the same pot of cheese, dipping their meats or breads in it. The cheese is also mixed with wine and cream and spices of some sort. With raclette, everyone is given a mini-frying pan, that has its own spot in a heating device put in the center of the table. In this frying pan, you put a type of cheese, cut especially for the raclette dish, in your frying pan. While it heats up, you take already cooked potatoes and cut them up on your plate… along with various charcuterie (cold cuts). Then, once your cheese is melted, you pour it over your potatoes and meat. It’s delicious. I probably had 8 little frying pans of cheese (they kept giving me more, it’s hard to refuse!). We had this with an appetizer of quiche and salad, and a dessert of almond cake and espresso. OH- it was good. Well worth the disruption in my planned out Sunday.
After lunch, we talked for a while, they asked me about my upcoming trips… gave me suggestions, etc. I told them I was a little afraid the strikes would interfere, but they didn’t seem too worried about it (but then again, this is normal for them). Laurence asked if I wanted to go see a movie with her and Laura, but I told her I needed to get back. But, what’s exciting is that she told me the movie theater in Saint-Priest, located a block away, will be reopening on Wednesday! And! Harry Potter is on the list of films that they will eventually show. Now, I don’t know if it will be in its VO (version originale) or the VF (version française, with dubbed over voices)… but who cares! I’ll go see both!
So now I’m home, ready to explode. I feel like I’m going to wake up with cheese coming out of my ears tomorrow after such a cheesy weekend. But, there are worst things I guessJ
Reste cool mes amis!
Zee Grand Adventure to Chambery
Despite our 8:41am train being canceled to Chambéry, we made it there!!! However at first, I was a little nervous that we might not make it. I got to the train station at about 8:30, got in line at the welcome station (accueil) and the woman told me the next train wouldn’t be leaving until after noon (which would have made our trip to Chambéry really short). Lindsey texted me shortly after I talked to this woman, saying that she was getting in line at the ticket booth. I found her, and then Helen and Caroline found us. We waited in line, hoping they’d allow us to take the 9:40am coach bus instead of waiting until after noon to take the train. We got up to the lady (a different one than I talked to), and she said, “But of course you can take the bus!” Yipee! So we hopped on the bus and headed out of Lyon for the first time since we've arrived.
From here, we continued straight on to the Hotel de Ville. The building itself is very pretty, but has an adorable carousel in front, with huge bunny rabbits and horses going round and round. Already we could tell we were going to like Chambéry. It was so cute! And it only kept getting better. We took several pictures in front of the Hotel de Ville and kept walking our way towards the center of the old town.
We took a little pedestrian-only alleyway towards the town center and found ourselves on a gorgeous street lined with colorful buildings, with overflowing flower boxes in the windows and quaint shutters. There were several fountains and a beautiful clock tower. I felt like my finger never left the button on the camera. Every time I turned around it got prettier and prettier! (And they've already put up their Christmas decorations!)
We knew we’d have plenty of time to tour more, so we all agreed it was time to find something to eat. A specialty of this area is the fondue savoyarde, a type of cheese fondue (Chambéry used to be the capital of the Savoie Dukedom). We looked around at several restaurants until we decided on one that had fondue on the menu that came with a little salad and charcuterie (cold cut meats) included in the price. It was an excellent choice, our waiter man was very attentive and brought out more bread for our delicious fondue. I know adding big clumps of gooey, creamy cheese to bread and ham isn’t the healthiest way to eat, but boy is it good. And, I’ve decided, fondue is just really fun to eat. Who wouldn’t want to spear their food and stick it into a pot of boiling cheese?
After lunch, we made our way through the town again, looking for the Fontaine des Elephants (Elephant Fountain). The fountain is at the base of the street Rue de Boigne and at the other end is the Chateau des Ducs. Although the main part of the village dates back to the 15th and 16th Century (or earlier), this particular fountain was put here in 1838. The fountain has 4 elephants (it has something to do with celebrating Boigne’s exploits in India) spouting water from their tusks. It is quite the cool fountain… definitely in my top 10!
We took several pictures and did an about-face to walk to the chateau (now the prefecture). A small group of high school students were on the stairs leading to the castle with a megaphone. How cute we thought, they’re “protesting.” The castle is cool looking; it has a beautiful chapel and tours dating back to the 14th century. We were excited to go in and see it on our tour (sadly, the protest got a little bigger and we couldn’t go in).
After this, we went to the big cathedral because my guide book mentioned it having beautiful paintings. The outside isn’t very outlandish like some of the other cathedrals I’ve seen, but when you go inside, it’s amazing. There is such detail in the walls and ceiling! And, after a few minutes you realize that it isn’t detailing carved into the stone, but actually painted on there! (On our tour, the woman told us it is called a trompe l’oeil (or trick of the eye). We didn’t know this then, but on our tour, she told us the cathedral had 2 different artists, giving it 2 different feels. At the front, the paintings seem to open the church… because in the arches and windows painted in you see what appears to be columns and more arches in a hallway (which isn’t actually there). In the rest of the church, she said the paintings almost make you feel more closed in.
It’s a pretty dark church as far as cathedrals go… the stained glass isn’t anything too exciting and they’re fairly small. In the back of the church, there is an amazing organ that’s been restored and has something like a thousand different notes (I think that’s what she said). The organist was actually practicing when we came in the first time.
After our visit at the cathedral, we met the tour group (2 hour tour, in French, for 3,50 euros- not bad!). Our guide was very enthusiastic about the history of Chambéry, telling us all about how the city used to be made up with canals and it was encircled by a wall, and it had a mote. It is also very smartly located in the Alps, which doesn’t serve as a barrier, but as a gateway to Switzerland, France, and Italy. The city still has many traces of this medieval era, but it is quite the mix of 14th-19th century architecture and influences. Most of the town was also built with wood, so not only was water a main element of this city, but also fire because several parts burned down several times (all restored to original or bigger and better than original in a different era, which gives the mix of eras).
She took us the Cathedrale St. Francois (the one with the paintings). She also took us through many of the city’s covered passageways (similar to the traboules in Lyon). These passages were created so that people could come out of their houses and within minutes reach a street parallel to theirs (these were a nice get-away from the rain). She showed us many different houses, complete with their own individual history. She showed us spiral staircases and little emblems carved into the stone dating back to the 14th or 15th century. She showed us the oldest street in Chambéry, a street that used to have a church right in the middle of it (there’s a fountain there now instead), and beautiful courtyards. Then, right near the end of our tour, where we were supposed to be going into the chateau, the protests had grown to hundreds of people. They were beating drums, shooting off flares, holding huge signs, chanting, singing, etc. It was quite the exciting way to end a tour (even if we didn’t get to the inside of the castle and hear the 70 bell chimes of Sainte-Chapelle).
By this point, the rain was coming down a little harder than the light sprinkle from earlier and the temperature had dropped somewhere around hour 1 of our tour. We were frozen! So before we got on to our train, we stopped at a very cute little salon de thé for a hot chocolate. It was delightful.
The trip was a success, we got our train home, and went our separate ways to head home. The girls were such fun to tour with… and I know we will have many more adventures to come!
(More pictures in next blog!)